Fixing Doors in ower home.

Hello, I was asked to do a little something on fixing a door. It could be sticking or not lac hing rite.

   So the first thing we'll do is to get some 3" drywall screws and ow er power drill.

   I all ways look at a door plum. Which means up and down or down then up. Either way your going to pull the door as close to the frame of the latch side. So you can still see light but from Top to Bottom you'll find the different. Your going to want the top to be the same as the bottom. sometimes just taking a hammer and hitting the hing in helps but that were going to take a screw out of the hing and run a 3' in its place. Most screws that are on a door area only in the 1 buy muterail. NOT in the jackstudd witch is best for the strength of the door. Remember do all ajust
ments before you put you 3' screw in place it will suck the door in so just easy with the trigger on the drill.

Now that we have that all in place and ow er door swings nick and then it wont latch rite. so then we just take a 5 in 1 and with the point they'll be a slot bend it back this will tighten the lock and latch .loosen the screws a bit and smack with the hammer to set ow er place. Then Titan.

For the best string ht use 3" it will suck in so take it slow.

so now that that's done we can move on to the next job.

Water-proofing in the Home

One of the most common water-proofing job in the home is sealing the basement walls.

  Now this isn't a very hard job we just need to be clean so the drylock we yous bonds the best to the block and concrete of the walls

   

know I'm going to go through what i have found to be things best to use. Drylok is the best brand in my opinion  Latex very good but it is very thick so were going to need a brush that can do the job.

Now take a broom and sweep the walls as clean as you can get them. Fallow with a vac. for best clean up..

Now that's all done we can start to use owner drylok.

We might want to put down some drop cloths depends on the floor and how you feel about it.. like if your going to put carpet down this shouldn't matter much. Just  prep the area. The way you feel fit for the job. That's why it's great to do it yourself.

just cut in and roll on just like were painting any other room of the house.

we're going to put several coats on. Just let dry and repeat..

REMEMBER

Putting more on is better than not enough...

How to replace and fix broken tiles in your Home.

552525565

Does this look familiar. I love tile floors, But this is just a eye sore. So I'm going to go through the steps. So you can fix your own floor. And doesn't hurt your pocket to much.

I use a 5 way painters tool for the first step. Your going to take the sharp side and run it along the grout line on all 4 sides of the peace that your Trying to fix. Make sure that all the grout is all out of the joints. Up to the good once. You may want to yous a vacuum of some kind for clean up. It will get dusty on the floor. Now that we have that all done. We can take our 5 way tool and start to pry up on the bad tile. sometimes the just pop right out in one peace. Then Therese the hard way. If there really on there good. Use the sharp side down and take a hammer and smack the flat side. This will brake up the tile. so we can get it out of there. Now once the tile is out we can get started on removing the mortar. this is the cement that makes the tile stick to the floor. Using the same Tool SCRAPE all the mortar out of the space. Down to the hardy backer Bord. Make sure there is nothing left over. 'Clean good' with vacuum.

Now that's all done. We can go shopping. Ya ; ) So now were going to go to the local Hardware store and pick up a replacement tile, a little thing of grout. That match's  the color that you have. and some mortar. Were going to need a trawl with 1/4" notches and a nice size mixing tub and a Grout float. Tile  spacers, a sponge with a 5 gallon bucket of cool water. For the grout and cleaning up your tools.

Know that we have all ow er supplies.We can get started. Take some mortar and dump some into your tub (Remember we rather have more, Then not enough. So there might be a little wast.
  Take a paint stick and slowly st er in some water. Until its like smooth peanut butter. If it's to runny just add some more mortar powder to thicken it up. Take your trawl and start to fill in ow er space. Cover completely. With the notch trowel side down. You want it to look like the picture above. So now that we have that down you can put the tile in it's place.
 Put the spacers in as seen in pic. I use a rubber ma lot to Hammer all the air out of it. This gives less of a chance of happening again. now let dry over night ; )

Now that's Dry we can remove the spacers and start to mix ow er grout. Do the same thing as you did for the mortar. As seen in the pic.
Know get some on your Float trawl and start filling in the joint's push up down and back and fourth. Really working it in there.

After that's all done as seen. We are going to take ow er sponge and wipe every thing up. Do Not push hard at all. We just wanna clean the area get as much film off as you can and feather in the grout joints. Let dry over night

Now we are going to seal the grout. Prevents stains etc. just follow directions.                                                

   

Then i put this Guard on the tile. Follow Directions.
Know we are done.

 Hope you liked this little job.  And helps you Do it yourself..

      

If you have kids or you were moving and it never fails Putting a nice dent on the outside corners in the home.A pricie fix. NOT any more..

Hello again, now we are going to talk about fixing or installing Corner Bead for OUTSIDE corners in your  home.

You'll be able to get the metal corner bead at any hardware store.
Measure the corner Plum meaning floor to ceiling get your  # and cut your bead to length. We will need Tin snips to do this smoothly.Now the corner is ready, take drywall glue and put a generous portion to the inside of the corner bead from one end to the other and push into place. I yous a crimp er tool They  have them in the drywall section. hold the crimp upwards and hammer into place. Stitching from top to bottom. Just make sure its straight.. The glue  will come out of it a little just wipe smooth with you 4" mud knife.

So know we have a option on what kind of mud to use. Depending on how big the job is. LOVE my bag ed mud its still in a Powder for we just add water its 20min mud and its sets up very fast and makes guys money. But that for another time. For now we will yous Purple lid mid weight Plaster/mud.1st coat we will use ow er 6" mud knife apply a generous amount from starting at the bottom then go up about half way then go from top down to meet in the middle or to bottom until nice and smooth. Remove any build up mud on bead. We can do the to both sides at the same time. It will all dry at the same time Therefor making the Bond very strong less cracking etc.
After we have let that dry. We will Take ow er sand sponge and knock off what we don't need until smooth.  For the 2nd coat We will use a 12" mud knife Remember when working with mud we are always cleaning ow er knifes and pan.. A GREAT thing to get for this is a tire brush for a car. and have ow er bucket of water. I use old mud buckets. Keeping things nice and clean will save you allot of headaches. When it comes to finishing. Now we will let that dry and sand smooth and feather

         The last and final coat we will yous Blue lid mud. With the mud being prepped and ready apply 1" back from the corner bead. We just want to fill in the space that's needed to fill to make the corner flush withe wall. You can take a strati edge from left to right and right to left to see how much mud to apply from bead to wall. Remember Less is BEST. Sand and feather, know you ready to paint. And also remember that the thicker the nap of the roller cover the BEST blending. Hope you have fun with this project  Feel free  to leave me comments. On what you think about the Handy mans way. Until next time..

How to fix small holes in you drywall. Most commen are from the doorknobs.

I think we all have don it a time or to when you open one of the doors in the house to fast and hit the wall with the door knob. Then you have this nice little hole in the wall. 1st put a door stop on the base bord or in the pin of the hinge so this doesnot happen again.  They have a few to choose from.+

Now when preping the area around the hole, dont be afraid to go out to wide. Just remember everything is getting painted over. So first get a sand block/sponge and then sand the wall all around the hole. About a foot or so.That will give you enough area to work with.We do this so the mud sticks to the paper. Makes for a better bond less cracking. Now that you have that sanded. You can put the mesh tape on the wall over th hole. Make the mesh tape bigger than the hole like 2" bigger.that way you'll have no problems. The mesh tape  has a sticky side. So you dont have to worrie about it moving on ya The knife I use for all my taping is the 4" mud knife. Now we can get some mud on the wall. Put a lillte bit of mud in your pan. make sure you have prep'd your mud correctly. Then apply a very thin layer to the mesh this is just for the mesh to dry and stick to awer wall.You want to make sure that you smooth it over 2" past the mesh tape.The thinner the better.. And that is Rule of thome on All Mud applications.. Just take your knife dip it into it just like peanutbutter  Smooth on a 1/4 in a circler motion. think of it like scolpting. Use the tips of your fingers to feel the mud on the wall dont push to hard just Remember Less is more. It's easyer to add mud then to SAND it.. Yuck I am not a fan of the sanding process. lol but who is. So anyway now that your 1st coat is dry. We can sand off unwanted  mud until nice and smooth. You should be able to see the mesh still . Just make sure theres nothing sticking out. Like string ect. For ower 2nd coat Use a Blue lid Lightweight mud and a 6"to a 10" mud knife whatever your comfertable with.Repeat the same as the 1st coat. Just make your circle bigger buy about a foot. pushing with the tips of your fingers away from the damiged arya. Remember all your doing is feithering  and blending. Let dry, Sand and fiether with a sponge sanding block is what i use. We can get it wet and that helps the blending without the  dust. yaaaay. lol when dry feel with your hand we want it smooth as posable. So now we can paint I use a Thick Nap Helps everything blends great. Better the Paint better the Resaults.Thanks for reading this and hope you have a little fun doing it yourself.

A little secret to making your bucket of drywall mud smooth and very easy to apply. No more bouble holes to refill and makes finishing alot easier.

Well if your a do it yourself er like i am. Its great to know tricks of the trade. And I know allot of them.

      When doing finish drywall. The mud or plaster you will get from the local hardware store will be just fine. The lighter the weight the less shrinkage. Meaning less cracking and faster dry time. The usually go buy color code. Like middle weights lid on the bucket is Purple. That is the most common plaster/mud we use. The Blue lid is the ligthtest they have witch means almost no shrinking or cracking. Very soft and smooth . I always use Blue on the finish coat. Some older guys like using the green lid. Know this is the heavy est. Its use in a 3 step application and the shrinking and cracking is very high. I do NOT use the Green lid. Its a pain and it wast time. With the 1st Taping coat Purple and second coat Blue. you will save your self a hole day of work if not more. Using a 2 step application and then ready to sand and feather in.
 So when you get the plaster/mud that you want. Take the lid off and there will be a plastic cover over the mud. To keep it from drying out. Take it out and keep it so you can reuse it. Then what you want to do is take your 4" mud knife and scrape the top layer off about 1 to 2 " and through it away. That way you don't have any hard peaces in your good mud. So know its time to mix up the mud this is were the TRICK comes into play.  I all ways add water to it know matter if you think it needs it or not. So put about 2 cups of water into the bucket. To mix the mud i use a mixing paddle that is mad for this very thing. you can pic them up at your local hardware store. Now your going to need a drill to attach the paddle to. It has a long neck so you can get at the bottom of the bucket. Know that's all set up your going to need The SECRET TRICK you get some DAWN dish soap AND PUT SOME INTO YOUR MUD. I would say about 1" to 1 1/2" out of the bottle. Now you can SLOWLY start to mix the mud water and soap together. you will be doing this for about 10 min. While this is being done you Will be able to see the bubbles coming up to the top witch means its pushing out the air that's in the mud. Now that that's all done. Your plaster/mud will be nice to handle and very smooth. And it will have a nice smell. But the best thing is no sanding out bubbles and no extra time and money wasted. And that's how i prep my drywall plaster/mud.